The jacquard machine was an important innovation in ancient China because it was used in the textile industry. There is not only plain weave silk, but also jacquard rhombus designs, as shown by the residues of silk textiles that have been preserved on the bronze artifacts of the Yinxu tombs in Anyang, Henan, according to the archaeological evidence that has been uncovered. This demonstrates that my nation existed throughout the Shang Dynasty of ancient China. Normal looms are only capable of weaving textiles with a plain weave, whereas jacquard machines are the only ones capable of weaving fabrics with intricate designs.
The technique of jacquard machine cross-stitching evolved from the original waist machine cross-stitching; this technique has been in use since the Han Dynasty, when it was used to twill looms and horizontal looms. When weaving patterns, a step (also known as a foot pedal) is often used to regulate a heald (also known as a device for lifting the warp).
It is necessary to raise the total number of healed frames before beginning to weave patterns. Plain weave is the only one that can be woven with two heddled frames; twill weave can be woven with three to four heddled frames; and satin weave can be woven with more than five heddled frames. Therefore, in order to weave complicated flowers with bigger flower-shaped loops, the warp yarns need to be separated into more groups. Gradually, this results in the formation of a multi-sleeve and multi-crested flower machine.
There are scattered flower looms that were woven by the wife of Chen Baoguang, who was originally from Julu, "with a machine of 120," as stated in the "Xijing Miscellaneous Notes" document. It is an extremely time-consuming process to weave such a large number of knitted materials. Ma Jun's "ancient damask machine" was losing money when the Three Kingdoms came, and he blamed it on the machine. Because of "Hinaisi's change of weaving machine," the sixty-stripe pattern was changed to a twelve-stripe pattern, and the technique of bunching jacquard was adopted. This not only made the operation easier, but it also increased the production rate.
The Eastern Han Dynasty, often referred to as the Hualou period, saw the introduction of the flower type jacquard machine. It is an example of the most advanced level of accomplishment that my country's old weaving technique has ever reached. It stores the jacquard program in a flower book that is created out of thread, and then it utilizes the thread to pull the warp wire apart so that it may be opened. The flower book is a collection of jacquard machine programs that are used for the purpose of storing design information.
In accordance with the specifications of the design, it is woven with the foot thread serving as a representation of the warp thread and the ear thread serving as a representation of the weft thread. When the machine is turned on, the fiber wire of the lifting warp is linked to the foot wire. At this point, tugging on the foot wire that is attached to the side of the ear wire may serve the purpose of lifting the appropriate warp.
When weaving, there are two persons working together from top to bottom: one is the flower puller, who sits atop the three-foot-tall flower structure to draw the floral jacquard, and the other steps on the bar to insert the weft. The scene where the weaver and the jacquard work together to control the jacquard machine is described as "the slender and quiet woman, the meridians of the meridian, the swaying and tolerant, the pitch and the posture" in Wang Yi's "Future of the Machine Woman," which takes place in the Eastern Han Dynasty.
On the jacquard machine, the pattern plate is positioned so that it rests above the flower tube. Then, each weft is passed over a pattern plate, and finally, the flower tube is passed once through the horizontal needle. When there are eyelets on the pattern plate, the hook end of the straight needle is still hanging on the knife, and the head end of the horizontal needle extends into the eyelet of the pattern plate and the flower tube.
This allows the hook end of the horizontal needle to extend through both. When the lifting knife rises, the straight needle also rises. The first thread hook, the through wire, and the warp thread that penetrates into the heald eye all rise at the same time to form the uppermost layer of the shed. This layer is formed when the warp thread rises when the lifting knife rises. When the shed is closed, the function of the heald is performed by the shed's weight, which is provided by a heald hammer that has been hung in the lowest heald ring of the heald.
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