A jacquard machine is a loom that can store jacquard information. When weaving textiles with patterns, the jacquard information is stored by various jacquard devices installed on the loom, so that the memorized opening information can be recycled. This is like the computer program today. After the program is programmed, all operations can be repeated. Before the advent of the jacquard machine, the pattern on the fabric was completed by cross-stitching. There are two methods of cross-stitching: picking one weft and weaving one weft, or picking one loop and weaving one loop.
Regardless of the method, the information of cross-stitching cannot be stored for a long time and reused, so even when weaving repeated patterns, it needs to be cross-stitched again, which is time-consuming and labor-intensive. In order to solve this problem, the ancients explored two ways, which led to the jacquard technology. One is to "soften" the pick bar, that is, replace the pick bar with a heald wire, which evolves into a multi-heddle type jacquard machine; the other way is to keep the law of picking the pick bar unchanged, and to seek a certain relationship. The law of which is repeatedly transmitted to the warp, so that the flower-type jacquard machine appears.
The process method of jacquard originates from the original waist machine cross-stitching, and this process method has been used in twill looms and horizontal looms in the Han Dynasty. Usually a step (foot pedal) is used to control a heald (a device for hoisting the warp) to weave patterns. In order to weave patterns, the number of heald frames must be increased. Two heald frames can only weave plain weave, while 3 or 4 heald frames can weave twill weave, and more than 5 heald frames can weave satin weave.
Therefore, in order to weave a complex flower with a large flower-shaped loop, the warp yarn must be divided into more groups, and a flower machine with multiple harnesses and cresteds is gradually formed.
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Working Principle of the Jacquard Machine
On the jacquard machine, the pattern plate is set on the flower tube. Every time a weft is woven, a pattern board is turned over, and the flower tube is pressed against the horizontal needle once. When there are eyelets on the pattern plate, the head end of the horizontal needle extends into the eyelet of the pattern plate and the flower tube, so that the hook end of the straight needle is still hung on the knife. When the lifting knife rises, the straight needle rises along with it, and drives the heald to elevate through the first thread hook. At this time, the warp thread that penetrates into the heald eye also rises to form the upper layer of the shed. A heald hammer is hung in the lower heald ring of the heald, and when the shed is closed, it relies on its weight to play the role of the heald.
When there are no holes on the corrugated board, the horizontal needle moves back through the protruding head and pushes the corresponding straight needle, so that the hook end of the straight needle is separated from the lifter, so the heald and warp wire connected to the straight needle are not lifted, and the warp wire sinks, the lower layer of the shed is formed. Therefore, the movement of each warp wire is determined according to whether there are holes or no holes on the pattern plate, and the holes on the pattern plate are rolled according to the design requirements of the pattern and structure, so the movement of the warp wire also conforms to the pattern and structure requirements.
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