As a textile tool, the jacquard machine/weaving machine is an important invention in ancient China. According to archaeological evidence, judging from the traces of silk fabrics preserved on the bronze wares of the Yinxu tombs in Anyang, Henan, there are not only plain weave silks, but also jacquard rhombus patterns. This shows that my country appeared as early as the Shang Dynasty. Ordinary looms can only weave plain weave fabrics, and fabrics with complex patterns can only be woven by jacquard machines.
The process of jacquard machine from the original waist machine cross-stitching, and this process has been used for twill looms and horizontal looms in the Han Dynasty. Usually a step (foot pedal) is used to control a heald (a device for hoisting the warp) to weave patterns. In order to weave patterns, the number of heald frames must be increased. Two heald frames can only weave plain weave, 3— - 4 heald frames can weave twill weave, and more than 5 heald frames can weave satin weave. Therefore, in order to weave complex flowers with larger flower-shaped loops, the warp yarns must be divided into more groups, and a multi-sleeve and multi-crested flower machine is gradually formed. According to "Xijing Miscellaneous Notes", there are scattered flower looms woven by the wife of Chen Baoguang, a Julu native, "with a machine of 120". It is very cumbersome to weave so many knitted fabrics. When the Three Kingdoms arrived, Ma Jun "the old damask machine lost money." "Hinaisi's change of looming machine" changed the sixty-stripe to twelve, and adopted the method of bunching jacquard, which not only facilitated the operation but also improved the efficiency.
The flower type jacquard machine appeared in the Eastern Han Dynasty, also known as Hualou. It is the representative of the highest achievement of ancient weaving technology in my country. It uses a thread-made flower book to store the jacquard program, and then uses the thread to pull the warp wire to open. The flower book is a set of programs for storing pattern information on the jacquard machine. It is woven from the foot thread representing the warp thread and the ear thread representing the weft thread according to the pattern requirements. When the machine is on, the foot wire is connected with the fiber wire of the lifting warp. At this time, pulling the foot wire on the side of the ear wire can play the role of lifting the relevant warp. When weaving, two people from top to bottom cooperate, one is the flower puller, sitting on the three-foot-high flower building to pull the flower jacquard, and the other is stepping on the bar for weft insertion. In Wang Yi's "Future of the Machine Woman" in the Eastern Han Dynasty, "the slender and quiet woman, the meridians of the meridian, the swaying and tolerant, the pitch and the posture" is used to describe the scene where the weaver and the jacquard work together to control the jacquard machine.
On the jacquard machine, the pattern plate is placed on the flower tube, and each weft is turned over a pattern plate, and the flower tube is pressed against the horizontal needle once. When there are eyelets on the pattern plate, the head end of the horizontal needle extends into the eyelet of the pattern plate and the flower tube, so that the hook end of the straight needle is still hung on the knife. When the lifting knife rises, the straight needle also rises, and the first thread hook and the through wire drive the heald to rise, and the warp thread that penetrates into the heald eye also rises at this time, forming the upper layer of the shed. A heald hammer is hung in the lower heald ring of the heald, and when the shed is closed, it relies on its weight to play the role of the heald.
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